Advance Cutting Tools for Fabric
Advanced cutting tools for fabric are specialized heavy duty tools for the cutting of fabric after spreading of fabric. These are specially designed with integrated system like servo cutting, computerized, laser, water-jet, plasma and ultrasonic cutting systems.
The Servo Cutting System
This system utilizes a spreading table with vacuum, and sawing-arm mounted cutting machine. As the cutting machine is mounted from above, the standard and base plate can be significantly smaller. This results in less disturbance of the lay during cutting. With the swing arm servo motor activated, the cutter can cut through more dense fabrics than the same cutter can do in one sitting.
Computerized Cutting Systems
Keeping pace with computer system development, computerized grading, marking, spreading and cutting systems are continuously evolving through technology. Three technologies exist for the cutting process, automatic knife cutting, laser cutting and water jet cutting. The two latter technologies, laser and water jet cutting are limited to one or two layers of fabric, or one layer of leather. Computerized knife cutting is now capable of 2 ¾" (compressed by vacuum) in cutting height.
Laser cutting focuses a powerful beam of light projected onto a minute area to cut fabric by vaporization. The fine, V-shaped beams only 0.004 of an inch. The beam cuts without pressure on the fabric which is a major advantage foe some types of fabrics.
Plasma cutting was originally developed to satisfy our demand for high quality cutting. On stainless steel and aluminum. But it can also be used to cut textile material (ionized gas is used).
Water jet cutting
A very high velocity, small diameter stream of water is created by applying high pressure water to a nozzle. The high-pressure jet acts as a solid tool when it encounters the material to be cut, tearing the fibers on impact. As the jet penetrates successive plies in a spread, the momentum decreases and cutting ability is reduced. The jet spread out and cut is wider and rougher at the bottom of the spread. Here the jet of water is normally caught and drained away.
Ultrasonic Cutting Machine
Most recently developed is a cutting system using an ultrasonically driven knife blade. Vibration frequencies in the 20k Hz range produce 1/20 mm movement in the blade, small enough to remove the need for a bristle base to the cutting table. Disposable knife blades save sharpening time and last for 10-14 days. In the systems developed so far, two cutting heads aroused, moving in different but synchronized paths. Up to 10 plies can be cut and low vacuum only is needed.
Cutting Equipment for fabrics
This is the major operation of the cutting room, when the spread fabric is cut into garments. Of all the operations in the cutting room this is the most decisive because once the fabric has been cut, very little can be done to rectify serious mistakes.
Sewing Threads and Sew-Ability
The smallest failure in thread performance results in losses on investments in material, equipment, garment engineering, and labor. Hence, it is important to know your thread thoroughly. Enhancing thread knowledge, analyzing thread parameters, the right selection procedure and use of thread plays a major role in achieving good sewing performance and the desired seam quality.
Why do fabrics shrink? Shrinkage in Fabrics!
During the manufacturing process of fabric or we call it fabric processing, fabric comes in lot of tension and stretches when it moves from one machine to another which causes stretching in fabric structure and when this tension is removed, and fabric is relaxed it tends to get back in its original structure causing shrinkage.
Worsted Yarn Manufacturing Process
A fine smooth yarn spun from combed long staple wool. Worsted yarns are more tightly twisted than the bulkier woolen yarns. The soft, heavy yarn is strong and durable and is often used for sweaters. Worsted yarns are also used for fine dress fabrics and suit materials.